Over 10 years professional experience on electric fireplaces & home lighting products

how to build a fireplace bookcase

by:Longjian     2020-03-30
Since we built this house nearly 20 years ago, I \'ve always wanted to build a bookcase around our fireplace, but there are always some other projects that are preferred.
This changed this year when my wife decided it would be acceptable to install a 60 inch flat screen in a place that had been painted.
We have been using wardrobes to store a smaller hd TV as well as a stereo receiver, Tivo, Apple TV, Blu-ray
Ray player and two consoles
Once that flat-
The screen above the fireplace went up and the wires from the TV to the cabinet made me crazy.
So I decided to do something.
With the new bookcase, the wardrobe is gone and the room looks bigger, part of the reason may be that the bookcase takes up space that was not used before.
The extra storage space is fantastic, all the wires are gone, electronic devices can be kept in closed cabinets thanks to the infrared
The red sensor installed on the cabinet and the repeater inside.
This bookcase provides more wow.
More than I thought!
This manual was originally a basic guide on how to make a fireplace bookcase, but it contains a lot of detail.
It will give you some basic guidance, some tips, and perhaps the courage to do something that is usually reserved for professionals.
This guide is very long, mainly because I think too much information is better than not enough.
As far as I know, there are very few guidelines on how to do this, so I think you may be because you want more details than elsewhere.
I will provide these details as much as I can.
Do you take it as a stepby-
Step guide, as a place to get some tips, or just like a relaxed bedtime reading, I hope you take something useful from the time you spend here.
I was convenient but I made some mistakes on this shelf.
The beauty of the painted wooden cabinet is that in the end, the only person who knows the wrong is me. Well. . .
I share a few. (
It\'s not my painting, but it\'s very close to what I want to do.
I am grateful and sorry for the Internet site/Guy I borrowed. )
If you are reading the article, you may know something about what you want to do.
Yes, you need a bookcase around your fireplace.
Yes, you have a good idea of how you want it to look.
No, you don\'t know how to get there from here. That\'s OK.
Some parts of this building, I didn\'t figure it out until I went very far.
I did a few things twice. All OK.
No two fireplace bookcases are the same, so even with this guide you will end up doing something different.
If you haven\'t already, go online and search for pictures of the fireplace bookcase.
I watched hundreds.
I also took photos and sizes from a few bookcases that I liked from friends and relatives.
The goal is to find something so that you can honestly say \"my stuff looks like this \".
You need a picture or two for your reference bookshelf.
Show it to others.
Make sure your other half likes it.
Make a basic drawing of your space and bookshelfto-be.
Measure it.
Make them as accurately as possible.
Measure the width of the wall and fireplace at the top and bottom, and the width of the fireplace before and after.
Your walls may not be straight and the fireplace may not be straight.
You can handle it as you go, but you need this information to make sure your cabinet is right.
In my case the walls are straight but the fireplace exits and the fireplace is about 2 inch from the fireplace --center.
This is easy to handle once I see it.
Take some chart paper.
Draw as much as you can.
Here are a few points you should consider when planning your bookshelf. Tools.
Don\'t you hate it when you watch a show on TV about building things and notice that this guy has a $10,000 saw?
The gadgets in his shop
Of course he can make antiques.
Look at four poster beds with canopy
He has all the tools that humans know!
Well, I have a fully equipped garage, but I\'m sure you can build a bookcase like this with some portable power tools. How?
Cheat a little!
Let the good people in the local home improvement center cut all your 4x8 panels into the right size.
They can tear your wood into width and can cross-cut the board according to the exact length you need.
Not only does that mean you don\'t need a table saw, but it also means you may not need a big truck to ship all the wood home.
I did rent a Home Depot truck for my first trip, and the rest of them went home sitting behind my wife\'s mid-sized SUV.
If you use the method of \"let them cut in the timber yard\", be sure to take a tape measure to confirm the cut when cutting.
If they make a mistake, you notice right away that they will pull another board and cut it again.
But if you take the board home and cut it wrong, you may eat more of the cost of the wood and the time of another trip.
I will list the tools I use in a moment and classify them as tools that must be usedhave and nice-to-have.
The most important tool you need is a basic power Man word saw. Electrical.
I didn\'t want to penetrate the drywall on the exterior wall in order to run the new electrical or low pressure, so I built a fake wall.
I created the code with a fur edge strip at the back of the cabinet and 2x3 s above the mantel-
Compatible independent cavity for electrical and low voltage wiring.
The result is a 1 inch gap between the cabinet and the back of 1.
A gap of 5 inch behind the large panel on the fireplace.
About 2 are provided around the fireplace.
There is a 5 inch gap between the brick and the cabinet.
Except for fasteners, there are no holes in the wall behind these cabinets.
Throughout the build process, I will look into wiring more deeply, etc.
Note: If you are planning to run electrical equipment, please make sure you follow the local code or ask an electrician to help you.
At least, you can do rough work if you are not satisfied with electrical work
Let everyone else connect everything.
Standard disclaimer: I am not responsible for your electrical skills, decisions or accidents.
Make sure that the power is off for any outlet or switch box you are working on.
A/V and speakers (low voltage)wiring.
Think about where you want to put the speakers and plan the wiring in advance.
As part of the initial design, you don\'t have to plan every last wire, but just make sure you \'ve considered all of this so your building has a path where the cable runs. Once the face-
The frame is on your cabinet, the Crown styling is in place, and any chance of running the line is almost gone forever.
The only exception is that when you run a plastic pipe, you can run or replace the wires later.
I laid the pipe between the basic Cabinet and the space where the TV is located.
Gas fireplace switch.
We have a gas fireplace with a remote control switch on the wall that has not been working for many years.
My wife and I couldn\'t agree on where the reinstalled switch should go, so we chose a battery powered remote switch for about $90line.
Marriage saved. Aesthetics.
If you have a fireplace in the center of the wall, it is important that the cabinets look symmetrical.
This symmetry means that all bookcases should be about the same width, and the vertical fascia in front should be the same width.
My Longjian fireplace is 52 inch from one wall and 54 inch from the other.
This is perfect for 48 \"basic cabinets and two 24 inch bookcases on both sides.
The extra is along the exterior wall and no one will notice that the leftmost panel is a few inches wider than the one on the right.
My fireplace is also a bit off center compared to the fireplace.
So the mantel next to the fireplace is slightly wider on one side.
No one knows.
No one will notice you either, but you have to measure it correctly.
Save Wood/waste.
When you measure, try to remember the rule of 12/48.
When tearing a 4x8 plywood or mid-fiber board, anything that is not 12 inch or a multiple of it will waste the wood.
All my shelves are 11 inch deep so I can get 4 from the plywood and use the rest (
Slightly wider than 4 inch)
For something else.
I also make sure my basic Cabinet is 48 inch wide and my bookcase is less than 24 inch wide.
This allows me to use the 8 feet panel of 4x1/4 on the back without waste and no seams.
There will still be waste, but there will be a lot less if you remember less than 12 \"deep\" and less than 48 \"wide.
For me, the panel above the fireplace is 48 \"60\" wide. . .
Again, a piece of plywood. Paint.
I painted almost the entire bookcase with a small foam roller for wood products and used a hard, hard, dry, non-rubber mellow paint.
I have never used this painting technique or paint type before, and I am surprised at how good it looks and how hard it is to finish.
It looks smoother than the surface of the brush, causing me to avoid the confusion of the spray brush.
I put at least two coats on everything, three coats on the shelf, front frame, Mantel and top of cabinet.
Space and chaos.
I was in my garage, in my family room, in a couple of good days, in my driveway, building the whole bookshelf.
When I work, my wife and two children are often at home and watch TV in the family room.
It\'s a bit frustrating at times, but it\'s not a big deal.
I guess my point is that you don\'t need a huge space to build this, it\'s not that chaotic or noisy in the room where you build this, because it will take everyone out of the house.
It was really noisy in the garage where I put things together, it was noisy in the house room for a few days, because I nailed things with the nail guns and compressors in the room, but this is not unbearable.
Remember to turn off the compressor when you sit down and watch TV or sleep! Cost.
It cost me $1300 for this bookshelf.
I used 3/4 hardwood floors on the case, 1/4 hardwood floors on the back, poplar trees on the front frame and all the decorations, fireplace mantel and medium fiber boards around.
If you use a mid-fiber board on the base, Shell and shelf, and a pine or mid-fiber board on the face frame, you can use less money.
Once painted, you can\'t tell the difference between the Pine and The poplar, but the Poplar is a bit hard, more stable and more dent-resistant.
I also ordered the custom door online from a place called the buck door, which is part of the Buck cabinet.
The preparation time is very long, but they meet my requirements perfectly.
I also bought the hinges from them because they cost less than half of the home improvement shop. Time.
It took me about 4 part weekends and a few nights to build.
The number of trips to the timber yard is more than I thought.
It took more than 5 weeks for the door to arrive, so consider ordering in advance.
All in all, the project took about a month in the garage, but the actual build time could be about 50 hours.
Do it in a \"simple\" way.
I look around and consider using ready-
Make cabinets for base and Ikea \"Billy\" bookcase.
This may work, but I don\'t think the end result will look \"built in \".
Also, the cabinets and bookcases are very expensive compared to the wood, they are not the height, depth, width or finish I need, so in any case I have to separate them and cut them down.
I decided to build only cabinets.
If you don\'t want to build basic cabinets, consider from on-
I bought the door from Buck cabinet.
You can specify the exact height, width and depth of the cabinet-
Consistent with these people, they will be in 5-6 weeks.
The main advantage of building cabinets myself is that I have a continuous 48 \"wide space\" instead of two separate 24 \"cabinets.
This provides a lot of flexibility in the placement of electronic products and so on.
In the cabinet.
I also don\'t need to add solid countertops to the cabinets as they are already a piece. Aw C\'mon!
Enough talk!
Let\'s take a look at something!
Here\'s a breakdown of the tools and consumables I use: I\'m absolutely sure I forgot something, but this is probably the most complete list.
Are you ready to start construction?
Take a few more points first. . . . . .
As I mentioned earlier, if you don\'t have a table saw, you can cut all the wood down in the yard.
But don\'t cut it all at the same time.
While it all sounds easy to cut at the same time, a small dimensional error early in the build might mean you have to either re-cut
Cutting or scrapping large quantities of wood.
Build the basic cabinet frame first.
Then measure from them and build your bookcase.
Once the bookcase frame is completed, measure the rest of the rack and panel above the mantel and go to the cut.
All your bookcases should be exactly the same width and use the same size bookshelves, but they may not be for many reasons.
When cutting wood, don\'t take too many steps forward.
Of course, if you have a saw and will cut as you go, then it won\'t be a problem, but you should still cut in stages once you get the actual measurements
I thought the opening between my cabinets would be just 60 inch wide, but the brick on the floor was narrower than the brick in the room and my panel was 1/2 too narrow.
Instead of buying another 1/2 plywood, I fixed it with some corner trim, which you don\'t know at all, but it\'s a nasty mistake.
This build order is a bit odd due to cabling, panel build and long time constraintslead-time doors.
The base and bookcase enter as you would expect, but due to the low-pressure plumbing, the large wall panels enter and surround before the mantel.
This is the order: Holy hell, this is a lot!
That\'s why it\'s broken down into small pieces.
I will try to cover a little bit in each area and include as many pictures as I can.
Before you start building, you will need to remove the skirting on the wall where the fireplace mantel and shelf are located.
Four key points about dismantling the mantel: my Mantel falls off in two pieces.
The top includes the shelf and the molding below.
Sit at the top of the bottom, including around the fireplace.
The basic cabinet frame is built with hard plywood.
The building is simple.
Before cutting the panels and assembling the cabinets, please pay attention to the \"best side\" of each panel you use \".
Cabinet top and fireplace-
The front should be the best.
Also, be careful with any gaps in the plywood and fill them if necessary.
The normal \"white wood\" plywood I used had a lot of trouble, which is why I recommend birch or medium fiber boards. Hammer time: (I have to say that. . .
It\'s really time for a nail gun.
Use your comfortable longest nail on the frame and bracket, but use shorter nails that don\'t puncture when nailing the splint. )
When the base cabinet is assembled, you can measure and cut the back, but it has not been installed yet. (
The mine is 48 inch wide and 30 inch high. )
To get the best finish, you will draw these backs separately, and if you are running electrical or low voltage lines through the back of the cabinet, you will need to cut them.
The bookcase frame is also a simple box made of birch boards.
When building the bookcase, pay attention to the best sides of all the panels.
You may want your two absolutely best sides to face the Longjian fireplace, but the back of these panels will not be too bad as they will be the inside of the cabinet.
The best side of the rest should be faced inside.
When you install them, be sure to pay attention to which shelf is and keep track of it.
Let\'s talk about the height of the bookcase.
My ceiling is high so your size will be different.
The rear panel will be installed later.
Paint them on a piece of paper and cut them.
They should be as close as possible to the external dimensions of each bookcase.
In my case it was about 24 inch by 78 inch.
This allows me to use a 1/4 birch plywood for each set of bookcases by tearing down each set of bookcases to enter.
Your size will be different.
I will discuss this again on the drawing page.
Hammer time: the hole of the shelf pinsOK, the first thing about the shelf is to drill holes for the shelf hook.
The Kreg shelf pin fixture makes this very easy, but you still have to be very careful because a small action of the fixture will make your shelf uneven when you drill holes
There are some great videos on Kreg
Show you how to use the line of this fixture. Watch them.
It can save you from some major sadness. (
Of course, feel free to use it if you have other methods you like.
I don\'t have stock in Kreg. )
When I started drilling for the pin, I forgot to include the allowance for the front rack strip and drilled a row of pins in the wrong place (
1 inch from the front, not 2).
Fortunately, these are painted cabinets, and I have a lot of wood putty.
Can\'t see the error in the finished product.
Put some notes on hold: bring the cabinets into the room, level them flat, dry them, including shelves together.
Does it look OK?
Any dimension or aesthetic error? Any warping?
If so, now is the time to fix it, before everything is painted.
Next, we need to add the edge bars to the wall.
You will use these tools to fix the base and bookcase to the wall.
If you intend to do so, this will also provide enough room for the TV power supply to run Roamex.
If you are running electrical equipment, you will need to cut the gross edge strip of the basic cabinet into two pieces and leave a gap for Roamex to run above the wall socket.
I\'m sorry I don\'t have this picture, but I\'ll explain more on the panel at the fireplace stage.
Once the trim strips are in place, put the basic cabinets and bookcase back in place.
This is where they will end permanently, so arrange everything carefully and look at them again to make sure it looks right.
When you dry everything: set up a drawing area in your garage.
I spread some oil cloth, spread two saw pieces, put some waste wood between them and provide a platform.
This paint takes more time to dry than most. Be patient.
There should be at least 3 layers of paint on all racks.
About a day later, the mellow paint became hard and polished to a smooth surface with 300 sandpaper.
You may not need to polish anything, but you may want to polish if there are some small bumps like sand on the finish.
Now everything is painted, bring everything back and reinstall it.
Don\'t screw it anywhere, as you may need to move it to run the wires behind it.
If you have a power outlet that can extend into the basic Cabinet, measure and cut the back and sides of the cabinet as needed.
Cutting the opening on the back panel is tricky, and here\'s a trick if you don\'t know how to do this.
Loosely attach the back plate to the base with two screws.
Then measure the exit distance from the wall and floor and copy it on the back.
Then drill holes on the panel where the outlet should be, and put the base back in place to determine how far away it is.
After confirming the dimensions, drill holes for each corner of the outlet opening and cut the outlet opening using a key hole saw or Dremel.
You can see the wound.
Electrical and existing low-level outputs
Voltage wiring in the picture above.
Build the wall above the fireplace now it\'s time to attach 2x3 s to the wall where the mantel is going.
This will provide space for flexible pipes, and in a separate cavity, Romex extends the power supply from the base to the rear of the TV.
A few things to note here: running a low pressure pipe, you can see from the picture how I route the plastic pipe from the plank at the bottom of the wall groove to the upper and rear corners of the base cabinet.
Electrical roughness if you choose to run electrical from the socket to the panel behind the plate-
Screen, this is the time to do it.
Now that all the bolts of the center panel are installed, your electrical/low voltage wiring looks good, it\'s time to fix the cabinets and bookcase to the wall.
The back panel where the bookcase meets the base is likely to have gaps.
This can be filled with angular molds.
Central panel OK, now you can measure the width of the central panel and then cut the panel.
This is one of the pieces I cut too early and found it too narrow for space.
Fortunately, I can cover the gap with corner molding.
Cut the opening in this panel: in order to hang this panel, first drill holes along the top panel and screw several screws into the horizontal bolts installed in front.
For this I used 2 deck screws of 1/2 or 3 inch.
Once the panel is firmly attached, you can cut, glue and finish the nail mold around the large cut.
Installation ladder-
The frame head above the fireplace is made of 2x4 Wood to maintain its stability throughout the span.
The build is very simple: I will start this section with a simple statement.
If you don\'t like the look of something, though you can change it.
Otherwise, you will see it every time you look at your project.
The installation of the fascial fascia is what I call a wooden strip along the top of the shelf, extending from one wall to the other. (
This term is usually used for similar parts of the roof edge. )
Someone else might call it the top. rail or a top-face.
This is a good installation project as you can easily measure each plate needed for the vertical bookcase face.
This is likely to be two poplar trees with 45-degree corner cutting in the middle.
This board does not have to go all the way to the ceiling as the Crown styling fills this gap.
It is important that the bottom edge or lips are consistent.
My mine is about 1/2 below the top bottom-
Shelf horn wiring.
If you plan to install a central channel speaker above the TV like I did, run the line for it now.
Mine went out through the access panel on the right side of the cabinet at the bottom, flipped over the bookcase, and then went out through a small hole at the top of the title.
It could also be a tough time.
Wiring in your other speaker.
I ran mine from the left side of the bottom cabinet close to the pipe, behind the large panel, drilled some small holes in the side of the bookcase on the shelf, and I wanted to put the speakers there.
The left speaker ran behind the bottom of the panel.
The one on the right went straight up.
I\'m sorry but I don\'t have a picture.
Hopefully you can plan the line as I suggested before and know what way it should go.
If you have not installed the basic cabinet front bracket, install the basic cabinet front bracket immediately.
You can go straight through the top into the brackets and put them in at the bottom.
I used pins in my list but it turns out that they are hard to install so I didn\'t include it in my list.
Just glue and nails.
Vertical faces are installed on the front of each bookcase.
Due to leveling, small bookcase differences and so on, these front faces are likely not exactly the same.
Due to the slight depression at the top of the cabinet at the bottom, my size difference is about 1/1/8.
This should seem like one of the first things to be done, but for me this is the last thing due to low voltage and other wiring requirements.
I want the mantel to lean against the bottom of the back panel and bookcase with no gaps and a few low pressure pipes behind.
Unfortunately, I don\'t have as many images of this step as I want.
Here are the steps involved.
I also made a small photo frame with some round models and attached it to the center around the top Longjian fireplace.
5 inch high and 36 inch wide.
One tip: use shorter finish nails and steep angles where the nails have the possibility to cross the boards on the other side.
If the nail does go through, clamp it with a wire cutter and hammer it into the board with a small punch.
Then cover the turf with white wood putty, sand and paint.
I\'m sorry I don\'t have any more photos of this part of the project.
Getting this right is a bit like assembling a puzzle.
You will most likely assemble yours in a different way, which is fine.
Our goal is to make it look great.
I mentioned earlier that when you build a project, change anything you don\'t like.
For this project, I am not satisfied with the asymmetrical facial frame and with some joint connections on the fascia and Crown styling.
The bookcase also looks ordinary compared to the fireplace, with toothpaste and groove shapes on the fireplace.
So, I took the crown and replaced the narrow bookcase frame with some of the same width as the center width.
This makes it look more symmetrical.
Then I started wearing a dress.
Debris on the shelf.
I did the following: filling in, filling and finishing paint now almost everything is in place and it\'s time to fill the nail holes and gaps.
Since I don\'t have a door, I don\'t want to finish the face box if there is a size problem.
But I hope the base looks finished, so after everything else is done, I continue to build them.
It turns out that this is a good time to install them, as installing them faster can make wiring and getting things done inside the cabinet difficult.
The key size may be the top edge.
This determines where the goalkeeper is sitting and how high the door is from the floor.
I need them to be at least 4 inch off the floor so the Bay base and shoe mold can be installed.
The size of my face frame is: of course, this is my wall.
Your settings will be different.
Here are the steps to make a face frame: once the face frame is built and painted, it\'s time to install them: when my basic cabinet door finally arrives, install the door, about a week ago, I did everything else, just a few days before my eldest daughter High School --
So I was anxious to paint and install them.
The quality of the door is very good and looks exactly the same as I expected.
I drew them a place and put three mellow and sour paint on them and they were ready to hang up.
The suspension is simple: once the door is open, of course, all the equipment in the cabinet stopped working before I installed the infrared repeater and the external \"eyes.
I used the BAFX product 4 lead I R repeater and the BAFX product peeping hole-type hidden IR receiver.
The two of them spent about $50 and I got them from Amazon. com.
The installation is easy as it only needs to drill holes in the face frame that is most likely to see the infrared remote control.
Then I set up the repeater, one lead per shelf (
Two transmitters per lead).
I don\'t even have the transmitter installed on my device.
I just put them on each shelf in front of each device.
It\'s like a charm.
One thing to consider.
Depending on your device, it may become quite warm in this small enclosed base cabinet.
You might want to install some hi-
To help with air circulation, or maybe a small fan, the lo vent on the cabinet.
I plan to do this at some point, once I figure out how to do it without changing the clean look of the cabinets.
The central channel speaker adds a central channel speaker above the TV.
I bought one.
Wall Center channel speakers from Amazon.
This is from Micca.
It is very efficient and reproduces the sound well.
Although it is a
Wall speakers, I built a small housing for it with the remaining mid-slim board and attached the housing to the center panel head.
The Micca speakers are designed to fit a larger case, but it sounds good.
It consumes much less power than the large and inexpensive ELAC speakers on the shelves, so I had to adjust the channel down.
I only use the speaker when watching the video because the channel is mainly for voice.
I\'m sure I forgot something.
I\'ll try to read the review for a while to see if anyone has any questions about the build I can answer or should include.
I will mention some finishing touches here.
Well, that\'s it!
Thanks for reading.
I hope you find this long tutorial useful to some extent, at least getting skills, tricks or useful gadgets from it.
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